Beijing Part 2 On Our Own

I am rather upset because my recent blog: Beijing Part 1 The Tour has vanished and I am not in the mood to rewrite it right now. Maybe it can be found somewhere in cyberspace and until I try to locate it, I will continue with the story.

As the title implies, we were on our own to explore Beijing today. I had dutifully questioned Jason, our guide from yesterday, and made copious notes on our map about which metro routes to take, which stops to exit, and in which order we should see the following landmarks: Temple of Heaven, Forbidden City, and Summer Palace. We needed to get up early, which didn't happen, and get an early start because we were literally going from northeast Beijing to central, then northwest, then northeast again to pick up our luggage, and then to the train station in the south. The plan was to take the metro as much as possible. We made two trans-Beijing trips via metro and then spent several hours in a taxi. Beijing is not at all like Shanghai, compact and vertical, it is spread out and it takes forever to get anywhere especially when there's traffic.

Temple of Heaven

First stop, Temple of Heaven. This altar and surrounding buildings is where the emperors of the past prayed to the heavens for a bountiful harvest. The Hall of Prayer is a three tiered round building beautifully painted and carved. It was probably my favorite. The Circular Mound Altar was interesting to visit as well due to the large group of "spring break" Chinese students standing in the middle singing the Party Rock Anthem, obviously a new form of harvest ceremony. Let's keep those traditions alive! Of course, in the past, even the smallest mistake made by the emperor performing the ceremony was a bad omen ensuring disaster for the entire nation in the upcoming year. I guess it wasn't all fun and games to be the Son of Heaven. I also bought a momma and a baby crocheted dragon from some ladies in the park nearby. Very cute!

Me in between the Doors

Second stop, Forbidden City. The only thing I have to say about this place is HUGE! We took a taxi to the north gate near the museum and were not sure if we were even in the city. We got on a tram excitedly hoping it would take us around inside the Imperial City but it only took us back out the gate to the road. Apparently that was the end of the trip and we were pushed off the tram by new passengers boarding. I guess we should have known 1 kuai wouldn't get us very far. So we got back on the tram and went back inside the gate where we walked around a bit. The builds were impressive and for a guided cage it wasn't too bad. I wouldn't have minded living there as long as someone carried me around in a jiao or palanquin (chair carried on the shoulders of other people).

Anna, Mao, Me

Third stop, Summer Palace. By this time we were exhausted and hungry. This royal summer vacation home was on even more extensive grounds and built on and around very steep Longevity Hill. A pristine Kunming Lake sits at the bottom of the mountain and the view of the surrounding hills is breathtaking. This was by far my most favorite place in Beijing. Winding paths snaked up the hillside to palaces, temples, pavilions, halls, bridges, and one very long corridor. We strolled around enjoying the scenery but in reality we were frantically searching for food since we hadn't eaten all day. Some rice cake things and beer made us feel a little better. We were feeling quite accomplished after our outing today and ready to go to Tianjin.

Beautiful Summer Palace

But what will forever be known as the Beijing Incident, put a dark cloud over our final experience in the prestigious capital city. Upon exiting the Summer Palace, we were accosted by people selling tourist trinkets like Mao hats, weird little glasses with noses and mustaches attached that would blow out sideways. They are difficult to describe. I instantly stepped away from the hawkers and tried befriending a stray puppy. While I was petting the pooch, Mike and Anna were bargaining for a Mao hat, army green with a red star on the front. Something shady happened during the transaction and Anna's 100 RMB note was switched for a very obvious fake. She didn't notice right away. Shortly thereafter, I wanted to buy a hotdog for my newfound four legged friend. A man popped out of nowhere to sell me the hotdog. Djorf gave him a 100 RMB note but then I found 10 RMB note to pay with instead. Quick as a flash, Djorf's bill was switched for a fake and he noticed it right away, demanding the original back. Then Djorf asked Anna to see her money, low and behold, another fake. The lady with the hats was long gone of course and the wiener man had also vanished. We tried to cause as much of a scene as possible but it was useless. The whole group of hawkers was probably in on the scam. All the people selling those weird masks just stared at us, looking very clown-like and disturbing. I despise masks. Considering this is the first time in two years anything like this has happened to me, I wasn't upset for too long. We had a good laugh, cursed the group of cheats for the scum of the earth that they were, then hoped the 100 RMB would feed their families, grabbed a cab and were off to the train station and Tianjin.

Our trip to Beijing was short but sweet. We accomplished a lot in just a few days. Now I won't feel foolish for living in China for over a year and never seeing the Great Wall. I have born witness to some of the most important sites in China and am prepared to leave without regret.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Loki's Triumphant Return

The door slammed shut with a deafening crash. The wind howled through the streets and apartment complex, rattling windows and doors, making the whole building shudder. Lightning flashed and lit up the sky, followed by booming roars of thunder, and torrential rain. Where had the sunny day gone? The weather forecast said nothing about this freak typhoon. Imagine this as the setting for Loki's return.

The night began with an amazing homemade Indian dinner at our friends' apartment in our old complex in Gubei. Sumptuous chicken, delicious vegetables, cheese cake and berries for dessert, and drinks.

Djorf's phone rings. "Ni hao?" The conversation continues and we ascertain that someone has called about Loki. In twenty minutes we are supposed to meet this strange man near our home by the police station. We said our hurried goodbyes to Archena and Andrew, thanking them profusely for the tasty meal, promising to text them if this dog was the real Loki.

In the pouring rain we hailed a taxi and sped off to the meeting place. As Djorf and I stood in the rain, feelings of doubt raced through my mind. Is this some kind of cruel prank? Did someone steal another dog that is just a Loki-look-alike? Will he even show up?

First Contact

After a few eternal minutes in the rain, a car pulls up. A nice-looking Chinese man steps out and waves us over. In the back seat of the car is a little boy, his son, and in the front seat...Loki! I have never felt so much relief and emotion wash over me. I was elated seeing my little dog safely kept and loved by his family of three days. I learned that the man had picked Loki up after seeing him on the street Friday morning. They had kept Loki safe, loved him, and fed him (maybe a little too much food, he has gained several pounds). Then Monday, his wife saw one of the posters so he called us. The man's wife and son were devastated to see Loki go home but knew it was the right thing to do. We told the man's son he could come visit Loki whenever he wanted. I am so thankful to have my baby-dog back.

We gave him the reward money and hopefully he will get his son a dog. I can't believe how lucky I am to have Loki back. I won't ever let him out of sight or off his leash again. I need to remove all the posters and email everyone who helped me. All their hard work and mine paid off. There are some good people out there.

Loki's homecoming is one of the happiest moments of my life.

Beijing Tianamen Square and Afunti Restaurant

In order to experience the countryside and one of my favorite ways to travel, we decided to take the fast train from Shanghai to Beijing at 7:00 am arriving at 12:30 pm. The fast train goes around 300 kilometers per hour and feels like you are gliding on air. The seats lean back comfortably and the prepackaged egg and noodle breakfast was actually quite tasty...or we were just starved. Either way, it was a pleasant journey.

The scenery was not that exciting, mostly just greenhouses, old or being built apartment buildings, and a few factories. I dozed most of the way periodically being jostled by other travelers as they boarded or deboarded the train.

Mike in the Self-Serve Shop

When we arrived in Beijing we took a taxi to our service apartment. The apartment left much to be desired. Obviously it had seen better days or the receptionist hated us and wanted to destroy our souls. It was a dark and evil place. We were four but the two bedroom apartment only slept three. One room had a queen and the other a twin. Our fellow travelers offered to cuddle closely and gave us the bigger room. One bathroom had one of those floors that doesn't seperate the shower from the rest of the bathroom and after our friend took a shower, the entire bathroom was several inches deep under water. Another amenity was the panoramic view of a prospective shanty town or nuclear waste dump. Cracked ceilings, dirty old carpet, and sparse furnishings intensified our need for the cold Coronas I noticed in the little shop downstairs.

The Self-Serve shop

And this is where I am truly amazed at the honesty and trust placed in people in China. The Coronas, Johnny Walker Black, and other snacks were left out in the open for anyone to take. No one was really watching the store. Apparently you were responsible for scanning your own items and dropping the money into a plastic box. So we dutifully paid and relaxed before setting off for Tianamen Square.

Scorpions

The first person to welcome us was the Great Helmsman himself, Chairman Mao. His piggy face smiles down at you as he overlooks the massive square and his immanent domain. After strolling around taking photos, we attempted to escape the square to go to a shopping street nearby. I say attempted because it was very difficult to get out. We went down some stairs then up, then down some more, then up, then down into the metro station then up to get across the street. Had there just been a crosswalk we easily could have crossed. I thought to myself how this really explains a lot about life in China. The long complicated way is often chosen over the direct and easy.

Seahorses, Scorpions, Centipedes...Oh My!

Our next stop was a shopping street offering Rolex watches, Zara clothing, and Chinese knickknacks. At little kiosks down the side streets you could buy snacks ranging from candied crab apples to stinky tofu. One delicacy was the famous fried or barbecued scorpion shop. You could purchase three of these nasties, yellow or black, on a stick along with centipedes, sea horses, and some sort of black insect pod with who knows what dwelling inside. I had originally convinced myself that my life wouldn't be complete unless I had tried one of these leggy treats but upon seeing them skewered and cooked, all my resolve flew out the window. We decided we had had enough and took off in search of beer.

Baijiu...Yum!

That evening we went to a Uigher restaurant named Afunti. For a mere 160 RMB each we had all we could eat sheesh kabobs, side dishes and beer. A variety show of sorts was offered including belly dancing where I was called up on stage to participate (I won a Uigher hat), dance-off contests where Djorf shook his booty (He won another hat), drums and a sitar players, etc. We laughed, ate until we could have exploded, smoked shisha from a hookah, and did shots of the famous but viciously foul Chinese liquor baijiu. A wild night was had by all.

Belly dancer

Finally we went back to our "hotel room" where luckily we were tipsy enough to sleep on the box spring mattress misery which constitutes a typical Chinese bed.

My Babydog is Gone

I don't know how to describe the pain of losing your best friend. My little Loki has been gone since March 30, 2012. How could something like this happen?

Loki's Reward Poster

Loki is a beautiful blond-orange Pomeranian. He is seven years old. We had both been spending more time outside with the weather improving. We went to Piro's for lunch and Cottons several times for dinner.

On the night of his disappearance we went out to Cantina Agave and then to B&C for a late night. Loki was loved by all who met him.

Late that evening Loki and I took a taxi home. We arrived at the apartment complex and Loki followed me inside. I went directly to the elevator but Loki decided to walk right back out the gate and into the night. I noticed he was not in the elevator and went back out to find him. He was no where to be seen.

I could not go to work that day. Instead I searched for my dog. We made posters offering a 5000 RMB reward and put them up around the neighborhood. We watched security cameras at the police station and at our apartments which showed Loki walking in and out of the complex. We put advertisements into Chinese newspapers and contacted animal rescue websites. Our local policeman contacted the residential committee and hopefully put a poster up with them. I have been lurking in the dog park all hours of the day with a poster of Loki next to me. I placed posters on pet shop windows and local animal hospitals. We even contacted a private investigator but they couldn't do anything more than we have already done.

Ad in a Chinese Newspaper

Ad in another paper

So far we have had a few bites. Unfortunately, none of the leads led to Loki. Also, most of our posters were removed because apparently they were against the rules. It is starting to feel hopeless. Obviously someone wanted a perfect dog like him pretty badly and now they do.
I have cried day and night. My baby is all I can think of. I feel like it is all my fault for losing him. Should have, would have, could have....

I blame myself. I hate everyone around me who has their dog in their arms. I hate Chinese people and China in general because they do nothing to help and there are no animal shelters to look for Loki in. And then I realize how terrible I am to think these things so I cry again. I want someone to blame and I feel like lashing out.

I see Loki's face everywhere and everything reminds me of things we would do together. Every time a dog barks, I hear him.

Please can someone bring him back to me. Please can Loki come home. He is my whole world.

To Be Blonde

There are many things I complain about in Shanghai, but my hair stylist is not one of them. He is the most amazing person that has ever happened to my long glorious locks. Dennis of West Hair Puxi has been the savior of my blonde highlights.

Before I moved to Shanghai, I was petrified of having to let my natural hair color grow out. The horror! I am not even sure what my natural color is, but I believe it may resemble dirty dishwater (something I haven't seen since moving to Shanghai either, thank you Ayi) I researched online for hours to discover that low and behold, there are many place catering to the bleach-happy foreign crowd. I have frequented Toni and Guy in the States and found that the boys have salons here too. I scoured expat blogs and typed in "best blonde hair Shanghai" into Google, and was thrilled to encounter multiple listings of shops ready to deliver the long sought-after foils.

Unfortunately, blonde tresses come at an exorbitant price. After a full highlight and cut in the States, I forked over around $180. Add in a 20% tip and you're out another $36. Cha-ching! $216! So the first time I go to get my hair done in Shanghai, I visit a very sexy half-Swedish, half-Spanish guy and for just the highlights, it cost me over $200. Ouch! So I tried to convince myself that dishwater was the "new blonde."

Luckily for me, while dining over a scrumptious Thanksgiving dinner last year, I was given the phone number of the Greatest Man That Ever Lived...Dennis! xoxoxo I dialed him up, told him I was in dire need of help. I had roots, I had trees, I had leaves coming out of the top of my head. He easily fit me in that weekend and I was off to a love affair with my hair.

Yesterday, I went to West Hair with my friend Krystle for a full highlight and style. We sipped margaritas indulging in the sunlight at Mexico Lindo on Hongmei before we made the twenty-minute taxi ride to West Hair. Long trip you think? Definitely not for the quality of work and price.

Styling - 3 People

We burst through the door clutching ice teas from Starbucks, ten minutes late, to the chorus of huān yíng, which to this day still sounds like Good Morning to me. The direct us upstairs to an open sunny room with three comfortable chairs and a sink/chair combo for washing. Dennis flutters in and coos over us as he ushers six stylists over to begin our highlights. Three for me and three for Krystle. Dennis discusses something with our entourage in Mandarin and then they scurry to get started.

Full highlights used to be a four-hour process for me in the States and now it is reduced to about three hours including the standard Chinese 20-30 minute head massage while they wash the color out of your hair. The whole experience is marvelous, especially the finale of only having to pay 600 RMB which is around $95. Cheaper than anything I have ever paid for my hair. My hair was blonde, it was curled, and I literally bounced out of the salon.

Dennis owns several salons. One in Beijing and two in Shanghai: one in Puxi and a recently opened one in Pudong. He has incredible customer service skills and only hires the most competent and talented staff. I know he will continue to thrive, taking on more and more clients. Great blonde hair stands out, he doesn't even need to advertise.

So, what will I do next year in Kenya? Once again I voraciously search the internet for salons that do blonde hair. Will I find another Dennis? Will my blonde hair reign supreme? What is a girl to do?

It can rain all the time

I woke up today and for the first time in four months, I saw the sky without a cloud in sight. Had I known the reaction of my body and soul to endless clouds and downpour I would have taken the weather into consideration before moving to Shanghai. The sun still struggles to penetrate the smog but at least its not raining (until Thursday at least according to the weather report).

These last months have felt almost like some sort of apocalyptic punishment, reminiscent of Dante's Inferno. My worship of the sun throughout my life has resulted in an eternity of rain, cold, sleet, and darkness as far from God's warmth and light as possible. Or at least that is how I have felt in Shanghai for the last couple of months, as if I am barely holding my head above the deluge in some unknown inner circle of hell.

My adoration of the sun began when I was born in Saudi Arabia, land of the sun and dryness. An average of 1.1 inches of rain falls in Dhahran. We lived in Kwajalein, a tropical island bathed in glorious sun. Rain fell here in the form of monsoons, warm rains that poured, and then quickly exited. One year was spent in Cote d'Ivoire, which receives tons of rain, but also tons of sun. Finally, I compounded my fate by absorbing an unfair amount of UVA/UVB rays in Tucson, Arizona which averages about 284 days of sun each year. It was only a matter of time before "someone" decided I had had more than my fair share: Shanghai.

But today, heaven's light has finally appeared. I am up early, I feel bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. I plan to get out of the house and challenge the traffic on my purple scooter with my Pomeranian, Loki, strapped into his doggie backpack. No more time can be wasted. I am off to immerse myself in sunshine!

B and B Beginnings

Over a delicious dinner with friends, a blog begins...

It all began with a failing book club: our first book, Bossy Pants by Tina Fey. Oh, yeah, Mean Girls. I had no idea Tina Fey was on Saturday Night Live. After multiple futile attempts to meet, we finally set a date and time at Der Refter, a Belgium restaurant in Shanghai notoriously famous for Belgium fries.

I arrived early and took the extra time to update emails, Words with Friends, and check the status of my wedding guests RSVP website all while enjoying a tasty Bloody Mary Beer, otherwise known as a Michelada. When the others arrived lacking the host, I realized the imminent collapse of our book club had begun. Despite our club's turbulent start, we proposed a new club of books and blogs.

The first meeting would be at my apartment with an African theme since we would be reading Little Bee by Chris Cleave. This also comes at an opportune time because I will be moving to Nairobi, Kenya in July. Must be a coincidence? So we meet to enjoy African ground nut stew, fried okra, and other African delicacies lovingly made from scratch and shared among friends over several bottles of South African wine.

B and B attendees must provide African music, food, wine, and a traditional piece of clothing. Reading the book, optional, talking about the book, optional, having a good time with friends who will soon be parted, absolutely necessary.

And the tale unravels...